When you feel a hoodie that’s warm, heavy, and soft on the inside, you might wonder—what’s that thick material called?
The thick material used in hoodies is usually called fleece, more specifically brushed fleece or heavyweight cotton fleece, often measured in GSM (grams per square meter).
In manufacturing, I’ve worked with a variety of hoodie fabrics—from ultra-lightweight jersey to 500GSM brushed fleece. Let’s break down what makes a hoodie thick and warm.
Table of Contents
- What is fleece and why is it used in hoodies?
- What does GSM mean for hoodie thickness?
- What are other thick hoodie fabrics?
- Conclusion
What is fleece and why is it used in hoodies?
Fleece is not a type of fiber—it’s a fabric finish. It refers to a soft, brushed inner surface that traps heat.
Hoodie fleece is typically made from cotton, polyester, or a blend, and is brushed on the inside for warmth and comfort.
Common fleece types used in hoodies
| Material Name | Description | Common Weight (GSM) |
|---|---|---|
| Brushed Cotton Fleece | Heavy cotton with brushed inner layer | 320–500+ GSM |
| French Terry | Loopback knit, mid-weight, no brushed face | 230–350 GSM |
| Poly-Cotton Fleece | Soft and lightweight, wrinkle-resistant | 250–400 GSM |
| Sherpa Fleece | Faux wool lining, very thick and fluffy | 400+ GSM |
If your hoodie feels super warm and plush inside, it's probably brushed fleece. Sherpa is even thicker—but more commonly used in linings[^1].
What does GSM mean for hoodie thickness?
GSM stands for grams per square meter—it measures fabric weight.
The higher the GSM, the thicker and heavier the hoodie. Standard hoodies are 280–320 GSM, while heavyweight styles range from 400–500+ GSM.
Hoodie GSM guide
| GSM Range | Hoodie Type | Warmth & Feel |
|---|---|---|
| 220–260 GSM | Lightweight, summer hoodie | Soft but thin |
| 280–320 GSM | Standard midweight hoodie | Everyday wear |
| 350–420 GSM | Heavyweight streetwear | Warm, structured |
| 450–500+ GSM | Ultra-heavy, luxury feel | Thick, premium, oversized look |
If you’ve seen oversized streetwear hoodies from brands like [Fear of God Essentials][^2], they often use 450GSM+ fleece.
What are other thick hoodie fabrics?
In addition to fleece, some brands use unique fabrics for structure or texture.
Other thick hoodie materials include quilted knit, bonded fleece, scuba knit, and wool blends for upscale or technical designs.
| Fabric Type | Description | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Quilted Knit | Two layers of knit with fill in between | Layered look, insulation |
| Bonded Fleece | Fleece bonded to jersey or nylon | Wind-resistant outerwear |
| Scuba Knit | Stretchy, structured like neoprene | Fashion-forward hoodies |
| Wool-Cotton Blend | Premium texture and weight | Fall/winter luxury wear |
These fabrics are less common in mass production but often appear in designer or performance brands[^3].
Conclusion
The thick material in most hoodies is called brushed fleece, often cotton or poly-cotton, with a GSM of 350 and above. The higher the GSM, the warmer and more structured the hoodie feels. For ultra-warm options, look for heavyweight fleece, sherpa lining, or bonded knits.
[^1]: Difference between French terry and fleece – https://www.masterclass.com/articles/french-terry-vs-fleece
[^2]: Fear of God Essentials Hoodie Fabric Guide – https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/fear-of-god-essentials-hoodie-review
[^3]: Scuba vs Bonded Fleece Explained – https://www.sewguide.com/scuba-knit-fabric/